How to Improve Home Security With Better Locks: A Practical Door Security Guide

Improving home security does not always require another camera, alarm or connected device. One of the most important places to start is the hardware already controlling access to your home: the locks on your exterior doors.

A better lock can improve resistance to forced entry, make the door more reliable and give you better control over keys or access codes. But the lock is only one part of the entry system. The deadbolt, strike, door slab, frame, hinges and installation all have to work together.

Installing an expensive deadbolt on a damaged frame will not fix the underlying weakness. Likewise, a smart lock cannot secure a door that does not close or allow its bolt to engage fully.

Quick Answer

To improve home security with better locks, first inspect every exterior door and correct anything that prevents it from closing and locking properly. Use an appropriate deadbolt where suitable, choose hardware certified to a recognized ANSI/BHMA standard, repair damaged strike and frame areas, and rekey or replace locks when control of the keys is uncertain. Secure secondary entrances as carefully as the front door. If you use a smart lock, protect its account with a unique password, multifactor authentication and current software.

Locks work best as one layer in a larger plan. Our guide to common home security mistakes explains why no single device can secure an entire home.

Better Lock Upgrades at a Glance

Existing Problem	Best First Action	Priority
Door does not close or lock smoothly	Correct alignment, hinge or frame problems	Very high
Exterior door relies only on a spring latch	Evaluate an appropriate deadbolt	High
Deadbolt does not enter the strike fully	Correct the strike and door alignment	Very high
Strike area is loose, split or damaged	Repair the frame and install compatible hardware	Very high
Previous occupants or contractors may have keys	Rekey or replace the lock	High
Household frequently forgets to lock the door	Consider a properly configured auto-lock feature	Medium
Guests or service providers need temporary access	Use individual temporary codes where appropriate	Medium
Sliding or double door feels insecure	Inspect its complete manufacturer-designed locking system	High
Lock works but the connected account is poorly protected	Change credentials, enable MFA and install updates	High
Entrance is difficult to see at night	Improve lighting as a supporting security layer	Medium

 

The best upgrade is the one that corrects the door’s actual weakness. Convenience features should come after reliable physical security.

Step 1: Audit Every Exterior Door

Do not evaluate only the front entrance. Walk around the home and list every door that provides access to the interior, including:

• Front door
• Back door
• Side entrance
• Door between an attached garage and the living area
• Basement entrance
• Patio or balcony door
• French or double doors
• Exterior utility-room door connected to the house

For each door, record:

1. The type of lock installed
2. Whether the door closes without being pushed, pulled or lifted
3. Whether the latch and deadbolt engage completely
4. Whether the lock turns smoothly
5. Whether the strike, frame or door is damaged
6. Whether the hinges or hardware are loose
7. Who currently has keys or access codes
8. Whether the entrance is regularly left unlocked

Test the door from inside and outside where it is safe and appropriate to do so. A lock that feels normal from one side may bind from the other.

This audit separates mechanical problems from access-control problems. It also prevents you from buying a new lock when the real problem is a sagging door or misaligned strike.

Step 2: Fix the Door Before Upgrading the Lock

A lock is attached to a larger door assembly that includes:

• Door slab
• Lock and latch
• Deadbolt
• Strike or strike box
• Door jamb and frame
• Hinges
• Fasteners
• Any sidelights or glazing beside the door

If one part is damaged or badly fitted, replacing only the lock cylinder may provide little improvement.

Signs the Door Needs Attention

Investigate the door if you have to:

• Lift the handle to turn the deadbolt
• Push or pull the door while locking it
• Slam the door so it latches
• Force the key or thumb turn
• Repeatedly adjust the strike opening

Possible causes include loose hinges, seasonal wood movement, a warped door, settled framing, a damaged jamb or poor installation.

Correct the cause instead of repeatedly enlarging the strike opening. Randomly removing material can weaken the frame or prevent the lock from engaging as designed.

Inspect the Door Frame

Look for:

• Splits around the strike
• Rot or water damage
• Loose trim
• Old forced-entry damage
• Missing or loose fasteners
• Movement when the locked door is pushed gently

If the frame is badly compromised, repair may matter more than a higher-priced deadbolt. A locksmith, carpenter or door professional may be needed when structural repair or new door preparation is involved.

Step 3: Use an Appropriate Deadbolt on Exterior Doors

Many conventional exterior doors use a knob or lever latch together with a separate deadbolt.

A knob or lever lock commonly uses a spring latch. It is convenient for normal operation, but it should not automatically be treated as a substitute for an appropriate deadbolt on a primary exterior entrance.

A deadbolt extends a solid bolt into the strike area without relying on a spring-loaded latch. When the door, frame and installation are sound, it can provide an important additional layer of physical security.

Do You Need Both a Deadbolt and a Locking Knob?

Both components do not necessarily need separate keyed locks. Some households use a passage lever with a separate deadbolt. Others use a keyed knob or lever plus a deadbolt.

The important questions are:

• Does the main locking hardware suit the door?
• Does it engage completely?
• Can occupants unlock the door quickly from inside?
• Does the arrangement comply with local emergency-egress requirements?
• Will everyone in the household use it consistently?

Single-Cylinder and Double-Cylinder Deadbolts

A single-cylinder deadbolt generally uses a key outside and a thumb turn inside. A double-cylinder deadbolt requires a key on both sides.

Double-cylinder designs may be considered where glass beside a lock creates concern, but requiring an interior key can delay emergency exit. Building and fire-safety requirements may restrict where these locks can be used.

Do not install a keyed-interior lock without confirming local requirements and considering how occupants would leave during a fire, power outage or other emergency. Security hardware must not create a new life-safety problem.

Step 4: Check the Strike and Door Frame

The strike is the metal hardware on the frame that receives the latch or deadbolt. The surrounding jamb and framing help resist the forces placed on that hardware.

Check whether:

• The strike is loose
• Fasteners are missing or damaged
• The metal is bent
• The frame is split or soft
• The bolt rubs against the strike
• The bolt enters only partway
• The locked door has excessive movement

The deadbolt should extend into its strike as the lock manufacturer intended. Partial engagement caused by poor alignment can reduce reliability and encourage household members to stop using the lock.

Should You Install a Reinforced Strike?

Compatible reinforcement hardware can strengthen some door-and-frame assemblies. However, not every reinforcement plate, screw length or fastening method is appropriate for every door.

The correct installation depends on:

• Door and frame construction
• Location of wall framing
• Lock preparation
• Sidelights or glass
• Concealed wiring or sensors
• Manufacturer instructions
• Locally adopted requirements

Avoid universal advice such as installing one particular screw length in every door. Use the hardware and fastening method specified for the tested product and the actual door assembly.

If the jamb is already split, simply covering the damage with a larger plate may not be a proper repair.

Step 5: Choose Certified Lock Hardware

Product descriptions such as “heavy duty,” “premium” or “maximum security” do not tell you how a lock performed during standardized testing.

In the United States, ANSI/BHMA standards provide a more objective way to compare builders hardware. Relevant residential standards include:

• ANSI/BHMA A156.39-2025:Residential locksets and latches
• ANSI/BHMA A156.40-2025:Residential deadbolts and deadlatches
• ANSI/BHMA A156.37-2025:Multipoint locks

BHMA certification indicates that a product has been evaluated against the applicable standard. You can verify listed products through the BHMA Certified Products Directory.

What Do Lock Grades Mean?

Depending on the applicable standard and product, you may encounter Grade 1, Grade 2 and Grade 3 hardware.

Within the same relevant grading system:

• Grade 1 generally represents the highest tested performance level
• Grade 2 represents an intermediate level
• Grade 3 represents a basic level

Do not compare grades from unrelated hardware categories as though they were the same measurement. A grade only has meaning when connected to the correct product type and standard.

A sensible buying process is:

1. Identify the correct lock type for the door.
2. Confirm that the product is certified to the applicable standard.
3. Review its grade and tested functions.
4. Confirm the door thickness, backset and preparation.
5. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Not every home requires the highest grade on every door. Frequently used entrances, rental properties, exposed doors and households wanting more durable hardware may benefit from higher-performing products. Installation quality still matters at every grade.

Step 6: Decide Whether to Rekey or Replace

Losing control of the keys does not always mean the entire lock must be discarded.

Rekeying

During rekeying, a locksmith or compatible rekeying system changes the lock so old keys no longer operate it. Most of the existing hardware remains in place.

Rekeying may make sense when:

• The hardware is in good condition
• The lock operates correctly
• You want old keys invalidated
• Several compatible locks should use a new key

Replacing

Replacement involves installing a new lock or substantial new hardware.

Replacement may be more appropriate when:

• The lock is damaged or badly worn
• The existing hardware is not suitable for the door
• The deadbolt does not provide the desired performance
• Parts are no longer supported
• You are changing to keypad or smart access
• The door requires a different locking arrangement

When to Rekey or Replace

Review the locks when:

• Moving into a new home
• A key is lost or stolen
• Previous occupants may still have keys
• Contractors or service providers had unsupervised key access
• A relationship or occupancy arrangement changes
• A lock has been damaged or tampered with
• You cannot account for copies of the key

After moving, you rarely know how many duplicates were made. Rekeying or replacing exterior locks establishes a new, known set of access credentials.

Step 7: Control Keys and Access Codes

A high-quality lock provides little benefit when a working key or permanent code is poorly controlled.

Create a simple inventory of access held by:

• Household members
• Relatives
• Neighbors
• Cleaners
• Contractors
• Pet sitters
• Tenants or former occupants

Retrieve keys when access is no longer required. If a key cannot be recovered or may have been copied, consider rekeying.

Avoid Obvious Spare-Key Locations

Do not routinely leave a working key in predictable places around the entrance. Safer arrangements may include a trusted person, properly managed lockbox or temporary smart-lock code, depending on the household.

A lockbox is itself a security product. Choose one suitable for the location, install it correctly and control who knows its code.

Use Individual Codes Where Available

If a keypad or smart lock supports separate credentials, give each regular user an individual code. Use temporary or scheduled access for guests and service providers where practical.

Delete the code after access is no longer needed. Sharing one permanent code with everyone removes much of the access-management benefit.

Step 8: Secure Back, Side and Garage Entrances

An excellent front-door lock does not compensate for a neglected rear or garage-connected entrance.

Apply the same basic test to every exterior door:

door condition + lock operation + strike and frame + key control

Back and Side Doors

Back and side entrances may be less visible from the street and used less frequently. That makes it easier to overlook loose hardware, damaged frames or doors that are routinely left unlocked.

Check them whenever you inspect the front door.

Garage-to-House Door

The door between an attached garage and the living area may be subject to fire-separation, latching or self-closing requirements under locally adopted codes.

Confirm that it:

• Closes properly
• Latches as required
• Locks reliably
• Has no damaged frame or hardware
• Retains required fire and closing functions

Do not alter or obstruct required door-closing and latching hardware merely to add a security device. Ask the local building authority or a qualified professional if the applicable requirements are unclear.

Step 9: Match the Locking Solution to the Door Type

Different doors need different locking systems. A conventional deadbolt is not the answer for every entrance.

Sliding Patio Doors

Start by checking the door’s original latch, keeper, frame, rollers and track. The door should close completely and the latch should engage without forcing it.

Manufacturer-compatible secondary locks, pins or security bars may be available for certain models. They must not damage the door, defeat required drainage or prevent emergency egress.

Improvised devices can create false confidence or trap occupants. Choose hardware designed for the particular door and follow its instructions.

French and Double Doors

One panel of a double-door system is usually active while the other may be secured with flush bolts, surface bolts or multipoint hardware.

Inspect both panels. A strong lock on the active door provides limited benefit if the inactive panel moves, its bolts do not engage or the meeting stiles do not align.

Multipoint Locks

A multipoint system secures a door at several points when the handle or key is operated. These systems are used on some entry and patio doors.

If operation becomes difficult, do not force the handle. Door settlement or misalignment can damage the mechanism. Use compatible replacement components and seek qualified help when adjustment or replacement requires specialized knowledge.

Door Chains and Swing Guards

Chains and swing guards can provide limited convenience when answering a door, but they are supplementary hardware. They do not replace the primary locking system.

Are There Alternative Locking Solutions for Added Security?

Yes. Depending on the door and the problem, alternatives or supporting solutions can include:

• A certified mechanical deadbolt
• Keypad or smart deadbolt
• Compatible reinforced strike hardware
• Multipoint locking system
• Manufacturer-approved sliding-door lock or pin
• Individually managed access codes
• Professional rekeying or key-control system

The best option depends on door construction, frame condition, user needs and emergency-egress requirements. Adding more locking devices is not automatically safer if they are incompatible or difficult to release from inside.

Step 10: Configure Smart Locks Securely

Smart locks can improve access management, but they are not automatically stronger than a quality mechanical deadbolt.

Their useful features can include:

• Keyless entry
• Individual and temporary codes
• Access history
• Remote status or control
• Automatic locking
• Integration with other devices

For a detailed comparison, read our guide to smart locks versus traditional deadbolts.

Feature	Traditional Deadbolt	Smart Lock
Physical locking mechanism	Yes	Yes
Battery required	No	Usually
Temporary codes	No	Often
Remote access	No	Model dependent
Software updates	No	Often
Online account security	Not applicable	Important when connected
Mechanical key	Usually	Model dependent

 

A connected lock creates two security responsibilities:

physical door security + digital account security

Use a Unique Password

Do not reuse a password from email, shopping, social media or another service. CISA recommends using long, random and unique passwords and storing them in a password manager when helpful. See CISA’s guidance on how to use strong passwords.

Enable Multifactor Authentication

If the lock account offers MFA, enable it. MFA adds another verification requirement when someone attempts to access the account. CISA explains why users should turn on MFA.

Install Software and Firmware Updates

Apply legitimate updates from the manufacturer rather than leaving the lock indefinitely on outdated software. If support has ended, consider whether continued connected use is appropriate. CISA lists prompt updates as one of its core recommendations to keep software secure.

Monitor Battery Status

Understand the lock’s low-battery warnings and backup-entry method before the battery fails. Use the type of battery recommended by the manufacturer.

Test Auto-Lock Carefully

Auto-lock can help when occupants forget to lock the door, but test whether the feature activates only after the door closes completely. A motorized deadbolt cannot secure a door that remains partly open or badly misaligned.

Step 11: Add Lighting, Cameras and Sensors as Supporting Layers

A lock controls physical access. Cameras, lights and sensors perform different jobs.

Security Layer	Main Function
Lock	Restricts physical entry
Door and frame	Supports the locking assembly
Contact sensor	Reports whether a door opens or closes
Camera	Provides visibility, alerts or recordings
Exterior lighting	Improves visibility around the entrance
Household routine	Ensures the security measures are actually used

 

A doorbell camera cannot physically lock a door. A smart sensor cannot compensate for a deadbolt that does not engage. Combine the layers instead of treating them as interchangeable.

Our home security camera placement guide explains how to cover entrances without creating obvious blind spots. For exterior visibility, compare constant and motion-based porch lighting and review outdoor motion-sensor light placement an also read about What Is a Home Security System?

Step 12: Recheck and Maintain the Locks

Locks, doors and frames change with use, weather and building movement. Add exterior-door checks to your seasonal home-maintenance routine and inspect a lock immediately if its operation changes.

Look for:

• Loose screws or trim
• Stiff keys or thumb turns
• Deadbolt misalignment
• Sagging door
• Corrosion
• Cracks near the strike
• Smart-lock battery warnings
• Failed firmware updates
• Temporary codes that should be deleted

Use only lubricants and maintenance methods recommended by the lock manufacturer. An inappropriate product can attract dirt or damage internal components.

If a lock suddenly becomes difficult to operate, investigate door and strike alignment before assuming the cylinder only needs lubrication.

Lock Upgrade Plan by Budget

You do not have to replace every lock at once. Spend first on defects that prevent the home from being secured.

No-Cost or Low-Cost Actions

• Start locking every exterior entrance consistently
• Inventory keys and codes
• Delete expired smart-lock codes
• Install legitimate software updates
• Check whether doors close and bolts engage
• Tighten hardware only where the manufacturer permits and nothing is damaged

Moderate Work

• Rekey serviceable locks
• Replace worn or unsuitable deadbolts
• Correct minor alignment problems
• Repair compatible strike hardware
• Add manufacturer-approved security to sliding doors

Larger Work

• Repair a damaged jamb or door
• Replace unsuitable exterior doors
• Install certified higher-performance hardware
• Correct complicated multipoint-lock problems
• Add professionally installed smart access

House Made Clear’s guide to DIY versus professional home security installation can help determine which work is reasonable to handle yourself.

Better Locks for Renters and Older Homes

Renters

Renters may not have authority to replace or modify lock hardware. Before making changes:

• Review the lease
• Contact the landlord or property manager
• Ask whether the locks were rekeyed before occupancy
• Ask who is authorized to hold keys
• Request repairs for a door that does not lock properly

Do not make permanent changes without permission where it is required.

Homeowners can often reinforce strike plates or upgrade deadbolts directly, but apartment renters may need landlord approval before modifying a door. If permanent changes are restricted, explore these ways to secure an apartment door without drilling while preserving safe emergency exit.

Older and Historic Homes

Older properties may have mortise locks, unusual backsets, nonstandard door preparation, settled frames or historic hardware.

A modern replacement may require irreversible changes to the door. A locksmith or door specialist can help determine whether the existing hardware can be repaired, rekeyed or upgraded without damaging original material.

Common Lock-Upgrade Mistakes

Avoid these recurring errors:

1. Buying by price or marketing language alone.Look for appropriate certification and compatibility.
2. Replacing a lock before fixing the door.Misalignment and frame damage can undermine new hardware.
3. Relying only on a knob lock.Evaluate whether an appropriate deadbolt should secure the exterior door.
4. Assuming one fastener recommendation fits every door.Follow the tested product and door instructions.
5. Ignoring back and garage entrances.Audit every route into the home.
6. Keeping unknown keys active.Rekey or replace when access cannot be accounted for.
7. Sharing one permanent smart-lock code.Use individual or temporary codes when supported.
8. Using repeated passwords.Protect the connected account separately from the physical lock.
9. Ignoring emergency egress.Interior occupants must be able to leave safely.
10. Treating a camera as a lock.Monitoring and physical access control are separate layers.

Home Lock Security Checklist

Before considering the entrances secure, confirm that:

• Every exterior door has been inspected
• Each door closes and latches normally
• Deadbolts operate without pushing or lifting the door
• Bolts engage fully
• Strikes are secure and aligned
• Door frames are not split, rotten or loose
• Hinges are secure
• Locks are appropriate for the doors
• Product certification has been checked where applicable
• Unknown or lost keys have been addressed
• Temporary access codes have been removed
• Smart-lock passwords are unique
• MFA is enabled where available
• Smart-lock software is current
• Battery and backup-entry methods are understood
• Back, side, patio and garage-connected doors are included
• Sliding and double doors use compatible locking hardware
• Added devices do not interfere with emergency exit
• Lighting, cameras and sensors are treated as supporting layers

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I improve home security with better locks?

Start by inspecting every exterior door and repairing anything that prevents it from closing or locking correctly. Use appropriate deadbolts, choose certified hardware, repair weak strike and frame areas, and rekey locks when old keys cannot be accounted for. Secure secondary doors and connected smart-lock accounts as carefully as the front entrance.

Which lock upgrade provides the biggest security improvement?

It depends on the existing weakness. If a door does not lock properly, correcting its alignment or damaged frame comes first. If the door relies only on a basic spring latch, an appropriate deadbolt may be the priority. If unknown keys remain in circulation, rekeying may provide more immediate benefit than installing smart hardware.

What type of lock is best for a front door?

For many conventional exterior doors, a properly installed residential deadbolt certified to an applicable ANSI/BHMA standard is a strong starting point. The lock must also match the door thickness, backset and preparation, and the surrounding door and frame must be sound.

Is a deadbolt better than a regular doorknob lock?

A deadbolt provides a separate solid locking bolt, while a typical doorknob lock uses a spring latch. A properly installed deadbolt generally provides an important additional security layer for a conventional exterior door.

What does ANSI/BHMA certification mean on a lock?

ANSI/BHMA certification indicates that the hardware has been evaluated against requirements in an applicable builders-hardware standard. Check the product and its listing in the BHMA Certified Products Directory rather than relying only on packaging claims.

Should I change the locks after moving into a home?

Rekeying or replacing exterior locks is sensible because previous owners, tenants, relatives, cleaners or contractors may still have copies of the old keys. Rekeying can be sufficient when the existing hardware is suitable and in good condition.

Is rekeying as good as replacing a lock?

Rekeying is appropriate when the lock works correctly and the goal is to invalidate old keys. Replacement is more suitable when the hardware is worn, damaged, unsuitable or being upgraded to a different access system.

Are smart locks safer than traditional deadbolts?

Not automatically. Smart locks can improve access management through individual codes, alerts and remote features, but their physical hardware and installation still matter. Connected models also introduce account, software and battery responsibilities.

Are there alternative locking solutions to consider for added security?

Depending on the door, options can include certified deadbolts, keypad or smart locks, compatible reinforced strike hardware, multipoint locks and manufacturer-approved sliding-door security. The correct solution depends on the door, frame, occupants and emergency-egress requirements.

Can a strong lock make up for a weak door frame?

No. The deadbolt, strike, jamb, frame, door and fasteners function as an assembly. A damaged frame can undermine the performance of otherwise strong hardware.

Should I install a lock myself or hire a locksmith?

DIY replacement may be reasonable when the new hardware exactly matches a sound, correctly prepared door and the manufacturer provides clear instructions. Professional help is safer for damaged frames, misaligned doors, new hole preparation, historic hardware, multipoint systems or uncertain code requirements.

How often should exterior door locks be checked?

Include them in routine seasonal maintenance and inspect them whenever operation changes. Loose hardware, stiffness, misalignment, corrosion, frame damage or smart-lock battery warnings should be investigated promptly.

Final Answer

Better locks improve home security only when they are appropriate for the door, correctly installed and supported by a sound frame and strike area.

Start with doors that do not close or lock properly. Then address weak hardware, uncontrolled keys and neglected secondary entrances. Choose certified products instead of relying on vague marketing language, and treat smart-lock account security as seriously as the mechanical lock.

The strongest plan combines reliable locks with secure doors, controlled access, appropriate lighting, correctly placed cameras and consistent household habits.